After our uplifting experience at the Cascades Raptor Center, we headed west on OR-126 to where the Siuslaw River emptied into the Pacific Ocean, the seaside town of Florence, our first destination on the Central Oregon coast. Here was what I had hoped San Juan Island would have been: kitschy souvenir shops, galleries showcasing local artists, waterside restaurants serving seafood, grumpy fisherman trudging down gangplanks with crab pots and fishing poles, children chasing hungry seagulls on a rickety boardwalk.

For lunch, a shrimp salad (like egg salad) sandwich for myself and clam strips and fries for Bob from Mo’s Restaurant, a local seafood restaurant chain.

